Ok, lets assume that you have been making prints or having your pictures printed by a commercial lab for a few years now and you are pleased with the quality you have been getting.  But, you are wondering if possibly there is something more you can do to continue to improve the quality of your prints.

The answer to this is yes with a qualifier.  If you have been using a lab that requires you to convert your images to JPG before uploading your files to their printing service then the answer is definitely yes.  But again with a qualifier.

When you converted your processed RAW images to JPG for the upload you lost about 20% of the resolution of fine detail and subtle tonal gradations.  If this doesn't bother you then read no further.  If, on the other hand, you really want to see just how good your photographs might be then read on.

The next step is to buy a color calibrator and calibrate your computer monitor.  It doesn't matter how new your computer is or what brand it is, your monitor needs to be color calibrated if you are going to get the best quality.  There are many on the market and usually cost from about $150 to $250.

Hint:  before I chose one I called my printer, Brian Dewitt at Atom Prints, and asked him what type of calibrator he used for his printing equipment.  Then I bought the same brand and calibrated my monitor.

The next thing I did was open my PhotoShop program (Photoshop, not bridges) and open "Edit".  From there I scrolled down to "color settings" and clicked on that.

Inside the color settings drop-down menu I set the "Settings" on "Custom".  Then in Working Spaces I set RGB to ProPhoto RGB; I don't use CMYK so I left it on US Web Coated (SWOP) v2; I set the gray to Gama 1.8; and set Spot to dot gain 20%.

Under the Color Management Policies in the RGB block I set "Preserve Embedded Profiles" because I didn't want to change any images I had edited and saved under previous color profiles I had been using.  I did the same for CMYK and also for Gray.

Next I clicked on all the boxes for "ask when opening".  When you open an image that you processed using your previous color management system it will pop up a flag asking if you want to preserve the previous color management or switch to your new management system.  In that case just preserve the old system because you cannot improve what isn't there and you won't gain anything by switching.

The next block is "Advanced Controls.  I leave them as they are and do not click on the blocks.

The last thing I do in Color Settings is click on "Preview" and then click on 'OK" to save the changes and close the box.

Now, go ahead and open one of your RAW images in Bridge.  At the bottom margin of your RAW image you will see listed the type of quality selection you are currently using.  If you have never changed it it will probably say sRGB 8 bit (Scott Kelby has referred to this as stupid RGB because it is the lowest quality selection available and it is what most commercial printing services tell you to use).

Years ago I changed my setting to Adobe RGB (1998) .  Then as I moved up in camera quality and quality of my printing service I changed it to RGB 16 bit.  And now I'm using ProPhoto 16 bit 300 ppi with my Nikon D800E 36 mpx camera.

You should set this for Adobe RGB (1998) and 16 bits if you are going to use a custom print service.  I used this setting for several years and would still be happy with it now.  Not all printers can accommodate the added quality and file size of ProPhoto.

The next thing you might want to do is go to www.atomprints.com and look at the site.  You might also want to call Brian and talk to him about what you are doing and about having him help you improve the quality of your prints.  And, it won't hurt if you mention my name.  It won't get me a discount but it might get you one.  Brian will make you feel at home as a member of the fine art photography community and you will find him very helpful.

Quest for Fine Art Photography - Part 4 will be a week late.